bhakti kansara
THE WORLD THROUGH MY EYES
MEGHALAYA
[ Travel date : April 2024 ]
Guess who finally made it to the enchanting Northeast of India? That's right, yours truly! After countless daydreams and postponed plans, I finally embarked on this epic adventure to Meghalaya, and let me tell you, the anticipation was palpable!
Meghalaya !!!! As I set foot in this mystical land, I couldn't help but be swept away by its breathtaking beauty. From verdant greens to tranquil blues, and clouds that seemed to dance beneath my feet, every moment will remain etched in my memory forever.
My journey through Meghalaya was a thrilling adventure, spanning from Asia's cleanest village to the enigmatic caves of Cherrapunji, each whispering their hidden secrets. Imagine crossing the river through natural bridges made from roots of the trees, where nature itself seems to welcome you with open arms. I chased waterfalls and trekked through dense forests, discovering a world where nature reigns supreme and every view leaves you utterly spellbound. 🌿✨
Day 1 : Shillong
So, a bit about Shillong: it's the capital city of Meghalaya, nestled in the East Khasi Hills, is a delightful blend of natural beauty, colonial charm, and a hint of quirky local flavor.
The day I reached Shillong I had a whirlwind romance with this place that lasted for half a day. You know those fleeting encounters that leave you wondering if it was all just a beautiful dream? Yep, that was my affair with Shillong. You'll soon understand why in below lines.
Now, I must admit, if you ever asked me whether I'm a sunrise or a sunset person, I'd probably respond with an existential crisis and a side of indecision. But as my loyal readers know, I have an incurable addiction to sunsets. No matter where I am in the world, I make it a mission to chase that golden hour glow. And Shillong, my dear friends, did not disappoint.
It was one of those impromptu decisions that came with a sprinkle of spontaneity and a dash of wanderlust. On my way to Shillong, I thought, "How can I witness the sunset from Shillong?". A quick search on Google and a name popped up – Laitlum Canyon. I had heard about this place before and it wasn't in my original plan but somehow, I managed to fit it in.
Laitlum Canyon, which translates to the "End of Hills," is about 25 kilometers from Shillong, and let me tell you, it felt like I was journeying to the edge of the world. But oh, what a world it was! As I arrived, I was greeted by a panoramic view that seemed straight out of a fantasy novel. The clouds, my friends, were not just floating in the sky; they were making a grand entrance, rolling up the hills like they had come to personally greet me. I mean, look for yourself..
And then, the sunset. Oh, the sunset! Words fall short to describe the magic of that moment. The horizon blazed with colors, and there I was, on top of the world – literally above the clouds. I felt like a child again, running, smiling, and dancing in sheer joy.
I half expected to see fairies and unicorns pop out any moment because it truly felt like a land of enchantment. That spontaneous decision to visit Laitlum Canyon? Best. Decision. Ever. If you ever find yourself in Shillong, even for just a few hours like I did, make sure to catch the sunset at Laitlum Canyon. It’s a serene escape, a beautiful adventure, and a memory that will make you smile every time you think of it.
On our way, we unexpectedly stumbled upon a vibrant local dance festival. Naturally, we had to make a quick stop to check it out. It turned out to be the festival of "Shad Suk Mynsiem," which literally means "The Dance of Joyful Heart" if roughly translated. It is celebrated every April and is the Khasi way of offering their thanks to the creator for all the blessings and bountiful harvests received, characterized by many symbolic rituals, dances, and the best of traditional apparel.
Day 2 : Phe Phe Falls, Krang Suri Falls, Dawki River
The next day marked the moment I had eagerly anticipated since the trip began—my stay in Mawlynnong, famously known as the cleanest village in all of Asia. Why was I so fascinated, you ask? It all started when I learned about this quaint village near the Bangladesh border, tucked away amidst dense forests. There aren’t many amenities here—no luxury hotels, no frills. Instead, you’re welcomed into cozy homestays in charming little huts, offering an authentic taste of rural life. Having heard so much about this extraordinary place, I made it a point to stay for a night. And let me tell you, it truly is a one-of-a-kind experience. But before we reached the village, we had an entire day planned out ahead.
We set out early in the morning with a grand plan to hit up some waterfalls and the infamous Dawki Lake along the way. Let me tell you, the roads of Shillong are a visual treat. Every twist and turn through the hills had us gawking at the stunning views. Our first stop was Phe Phe Falls, which required a 40-50 minute trek to reach its breathtaking cascade and just as we were about to arrive, the weather flipped a switch from sunny skies to a foggy wonderland. Perfect trekking weather, if you ask me! To kick things off, we had to cross a small river by boat—talk about setting the adventure tone!
As we started early in the morning. we were feeling a bit peckish. So, before our trek, we headed to this charming little café nearby. The rainy weather practically called for pakodas and chai, so we eagerly ordered some. It was the perfect way to energize ourselves for the adventure ahead!
Then came the walk through peaceful grasslands, with a calm river flowing beside us, eventually tumbling off a cliff to form the stunning Phe Phe Falls. Along the way, we spotted cute little cows grazing, fishermen at work, and locals going about their day with a relaxed vibe. A light drizzle started, making everything glisten.
As we reached the waterfall, it was blissfully quiet, with just a couple of other people around. It felt like we had our own private slice of paradise. To get to the bottom of the waterfall, we had to descend a few steps, and what awaited us were crystal-clear water pools.
After spending some time here—splashing water on our faces, feeling the chill of the stream, and soaking in the serene surroundings—while my friend captured its beauty with her DSLR, we began our journey to the next stop : Krang Suri waterfall. Now, here’s the thing about Krang Suri—it’s famous and easy to reach, which means it's a people magnet. And by "people magnet," I mean hordes of tourists. We arrived in the afternoon, right when the crowd was at its peak. If peace and quiet are your jam, this might not be your scene. If you want to really enjoy Krang Suri, I’d suggest getting there early in the morning. With fewer people around, you’d have a much better time soaking in the beauty of the place. That’s when I imagine the place would be pure magic—just you, the waterfall, and nature in all its glory.
The path to Krang Suri Waterfall is a long route lined with steps, requiring a descent of about 30 minutes to reach the base. Along the way, we took a wrong turn and wandered off in the wrong direction, but eventually found our way back to the waterfall. Despite feeling tired from the detour, I couldn’t resist the chance to take a dip in the icy cold water——after all, it was my first time ever taking a dip in a waterfall. At first, the cold water took my breath away, making me gasp and laugh at the same time.
One thing to keep in mind when traveling in the northeast part of India is that the sun sets very early. It’s best to cover all your spots and reach your accommodation by 6 or 7 PM if possible. We had one more stop to go before heading to the village, the infamous Dawki Lake. By the time we arrived, the sun was already setting and the daylight was fading fast. I felt a twinge of disappointment, cause I knew I wouldn't get to experience the lake’s famed clear waters or enjoy a boat ride. But atleast we managed to catch the last boat of the day.
As we set out on the lake, the soft twilight glow made it feel like the perfect end to the day. The air was cool and crisp, and the water, though no longer glistening under the sun, had a mysterious allure in the fading light. Gliding across the lake, surrounded by towering cliffs, and the sound of water lapping against the boat was a soothing experience.
At one point, I realized just how close we were to the Bangladesh border— with just stacks of stones separating us, guarded by the border security force. It was practically within arm's reach! My friend even accidentally stepped over it, adding a humorous twist to our adventure. Even with the light fading, boating on Dawki Lake was unforgettable. The serene environment, coupled with the thrill of being so close to another country, made it a unique and beautiful experience.
When I asked around I got to know that the clear water of Dawki is visible during the winter months when there is no rainfall. Right now, it's harder to see that clarity. I consoled myself with the thought that next time, I'll plan my visit for the winter to ensure I witness the lake's famed crystal-clear waters. With that thought in mind, we headed to our stay in Mawlyngong Village.
The route to the village ran almost parallel to the Bangladesh border, and since we left Dawki Lake late, it had already gotten dark by the time we were on our way. The entire stretch, winding through dense jungle with hardly anyone around, no lights, and no network, made it feel quite eerie. I won’t lie—it was one of the scariest 2-3 hours of my life. With thoughts racing through my mind—what if our car breaks down and we can't find anyone to help us, or what if it starts raining heavily?—the uncertainty made the journey even more nerve-wracking. Thankfully, we made it to the village safely. As soon as we arrived, I could immediately feel the peacefulness of the place settle over me.
We checked into out airbnb post having a simple dinner at a small local restaurant. Our cottage-like room in the village had a cozy, homely vibe. After such a hectic day, it was the perfect place to relax and unwind. But the climax of our day was still to come. Just as we were ready to go to sleep, the rain started pouring down, accompanied by deafening lightning. At first, I thought it would pass soon, but oh my god, it rained heavily all night, as if nature was putting on a dramatic show just for us. Since our room was surrounded by trees, the sound of the rain felt even more intense, echoing around us and making it far scarier than the usual downpour we’d hear.
The very next morning, when I woke up, I immediately looked outside the window, and everything seemed so still, calm and peaceful. The chaos of the night’s storm felt like a distant memory. I stepped outside the cottage, and all I could hear were the sounds of birds singing, trees rustling and locals doing their household chores. The nearby river, once fierce with the rain, now flowed gently. With a cup of tea in hand, I savored every moment, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for this peaceful slice of nature.
Here's the small hut where we stayed, where every creak of the wooden walls and rustle of the leaves outside added to the warmth and comfort of being completely immersed in nature.
Day 3 : Mawlyngong village
Now let me tell you more about this village. Mawlyngong village, nestled in the East Khasi Hills of Meghalaya, is renowned as the cleanest village in Asia. This picturesque village, often referred to as "God’s Own Garden," is a testament to community-driven cleanliness and sustainability. The village emphasizes sustainable living, using bamboo for construction and other needs, and promoting rainwater harvesting.
But what impressed me more is the fact that this village is also known for its matrilineal culture. In this village, women play a central role in the community and family structures, a tradition that is deeply rooted in Khasi culture. In Mawlyngong, property and family names are passed down through the female line. The youngest daughter inherits the family property and is responsible for taking care of her parents. This matrilineal system empowers women, giving them significant influence in both domestic and community affairs.
Visiting Mawlyngong offers a unique glimpse into a society where women hold substantial power and influence, providing a refreshing contrast to more patriarchal systems and highlighting the diverse ways communities can thrive.
This village feels like a secluded jungle paradise, with towering trees that seem to touch the sky. I was definitely excited to spend a night here, experiencing life in such a unique setting.
The owner of the place, Jo, was incredibly helpful and treated us to delicious aloo parathas for breakfast. As we enjoyed our meal, we also met his two little sisters, who were both adorable and shy, hesitantly offering smiles. There’s something uniquely heartwarming about people who live close to nature—their innocence feels so pure, it always captures my heart in ways I can’t fully explain.
Later, we got ready and set out to explore the village. There was so much to discover—charming little houses, churches with schools nearby, and a small stream running behind the homes, where locals gathered water for their daily needs. The village center, with its cozy restaurants and shops selling everyday essentials, served as the heart of the community. We spent the morning simply strolling through the streets, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere, and enjoying the simple beauty of village life.
The cute little houses in this village were exactly my kind of thing. With tiny windows, colorful doors, and cozy hut-like roofs, they were just so inviting. I loved how each had a small veranda to sit on and a garden filled with bright flowers in charming pots. These homes gave off such a warm & homely vibe.
In the village, there's a remarkable spot called "The Sky View"—a treetop platform with bamboo stairs that lead you to a stunning view of Bangladesh, India's neighboring country. Conveniently located right behind our stay, we decided to climb up. As we ascended, the dense forest unfolded before us, stretching endlessly in every direction.
Amongst all the places around this village, the real gem is the Living Root Bridge. The Jingmaham Living Root Bridge is nestled within the dense forests of Mawlyngong village. It is crafted from the aerial roots of ancient rubber trees, meticulously woven and nurtured over generations by the local Khasi people.
To reach the bridge, you need to trek through the forest. The journey itself is beautiful, with lush greenery and the sounds of nature all around. After crossing the bridge, we found a sweet spot on the riverbank near a waterfall, where we could enjoy the beauty of this place in solitude.
Day 4 : Cherrapunji
The very next day, we set off towards our next destination—Cherrapunji, also known as Sohra. This place has its own unique charm, once renowned as the wettest place on Earth. The road to Cherrapunji was so stunningly picturesque that words can hardly do it justice, so I'll let the videos do the talking.
On our way to Cherrapunji, we stopped for a quick tea break at a small village perched atop a hill. From there, the view of the valley below was breathtaking, with the entire expanse visible in its serene beauty. It was evening, and the sun was just about to set, painting the sky in hues of red and orange. Captivated by the glow of the setting sun, we quickly savored our tea and Maggi, knowing we needed to get back on the road soon to avoid arriving too late at our destination.
Even though we arrived late and exhausted, our excitement hadn’t diminished one bit. After checking in and enjoying a simple dinner, we couldn’t resist taking a stroll outside, despite the cold and foggy weather. The air was so crisp and refreshing that staying cooped up in our room just wasn’t an option—we had to step out and soak in the fresh, cool air.
Day 5 : Caves & Waterfalls of Cherrapunji
The next morning, we woke up to a breathtaking sight—dense clouds hovering over the mountains, with the cloud level actually beneath us. The weather was chilly, with rain showers coming and going as if on a whim. It's no wonder this place is known as the wettest spot on Earth. Our plan for the day was to dive into the adventure of exploring Cherrapunji's caves and waterfalls.
Our first stop was Arwah Caves - known for limestone walls with fossils of fish & crustaceans. The path leading to the caves felt like a trail along the mountain, surrounded by towering, dense trees. With fog swirling in the air, the pathway had an eerie, almost ghostly feel, adding an extra thrill to our walk.
Since it was my first time visiting a cave, my curiosity was piqued. Inside, the path was illuminated by torch lights for about 200-300 meters. Most people turned back at this point, but not us. We noticed a group squeezing through a narrow, unlit passage and, without hesitation, decided to follow them. After all, what’s life without a little adventure, right?
After about 100 meters, we hit a dead end and realized it was time to head back. But as we retraced our steps, we stumbled upon two new paths—one to the left and one to the right—that we hadn’t noticed before. For a moment, panic set in. Had we just signed up for a real-life game of "Where’s the Exit?" With the cave nearly pitch black, it felt like a disorienting maze. For a few minutes, we were completely confused, struggling to decide which way to go. We traced both sides, but each seemed to lead deeper into the darkness, leaving us just as uncertain as before. Thankfully, a familiar rock formation appeared just in time, guiding us back to safety and putting our worries to rest.
Emerging from the cave, we couldn't help but laugh at our brief stint as amateur spelunkers. It turns out, the experience wasn't as spooky as it felt in the moment—just a delightful blend of thrill and laughter. Oh, and by the way, I bumped my head on a rock while leaving. But thankfully, it wasn't that serious.
After our cave escapade, we ventured to a few more spots, including Nokkalaki Falls, Mawsmai Caves, and Seven Sisters.
The view of Nokkalakai Falls looked amazing from above, but I heard it's even better from the bottom. Descending to the base of the waterfall offers an even more serene experience. It's said to be a challenging three-hour trek with steep slopes, making it quite the adventure. Regrettably, I didn't have the time to do so. Maybe next time!
We called it an early night, knowing we had a big trek ahead of us the next day—the trek to the Double Decker Root Bridge. We had to start the trek by 7 AM, so we needed to get some rest. But just as we were about to drift off, the heavens opened up again, unleashing another torrential downpour followed by a hailstorm. The sound of the rain was deafening, and we couldn’t help but worry about the trek ahead. Now, I fully understood why Cherrapunji was once known as the wettest place on Earth (though now Mawsynram holds that title). The rain was so intense it felt like lightning could strike right next to us, even while we were indoors. It poured relentlessly through the night, leaving us wide awake and questioning whether it was safe to trek the next day with so much rainfall. We even considered calling it off, but by morning, the storm had passed, and everything had calmed down. Despite being sleep-deprived from the restless night, we managed to hit the trail by 8 AM, ready for the adventure ahead.
Day 6 : Trek to Double Decker Root Bridge
We woke up to a foggy morning, ready for an epic trek through Cherrapunji's forests. We were thinking to visit both the Double Decker Bridge and, if luck was on our side, Rainbow Falls too. But alas, recent rain had closed off the Rainbow Falls route, so we stuck to our original plan.To ensure we stayed on track and returned before sunset, we hired a guide for 1000 bucks. We figured having some help navigating the route would be a wise move given the unpredictable weather.
The path to the Double Decker Bridge is a journey like no other, shrouded in fog, and cloaked in mystery. With around 3500 steps to tackle, it promised to be a test of our mettle. But hey, who doesn't love a good challenge? We walked through dense forests, crossed dizzying river bridges towering a hundred meters above the swirling waters below. Sure, it was a tad nerve-wracking, but isn't that what adventure is all about?
The Double Decker Bridge, being the most famous spot in Meghalaya, was indeed crowded with people. Despite the crowd, we savored the journey more than the destination. On our way back, we stumbled upon a stall serving tea and Maggi, the perfect reward for our trekking efforts. It was a simple pleasure, but after a day of adventure, it felt really good. While we descended the steps, the going was smooth, but the return journey proved to be a test of endurance. We were stopping more often than a toddler in a candy store, hoping each break would magically refill our energy tanks (but it didn't work out as planned!).
This trek has clearly marked routes, so even if you decide to go solo without a guide, it's doable. Along the way, you'll pass through villages and plenty of little shops where you can ask for directions if needed. It's safe to navigate. Many adventurers opt to spend the night in the village to catch the stunning Rainbow Falls at sunrise and head back the next day. However, the accommodation options are limited to basic homestays. So, if you're up for it, you can stay over, but don't expect any fancy luxuries.
During my three-day stay in Cherrapunji, I noticed that the homestay culture here is quite impressive. Nearly all homestays offer a pleasant experience, so you can confidently book any of them. Also I was pleasantly surprised by the cleanliness of Cherrapunji and the efforts made by its residents to maintain it. The hills and landscapes of Cherrapunji were truly a feast for the eyes.
Eating Spots in Cherrapunji:
While we mainly indulged in street food or ordered in-room dining, we made a point to visit these two places, and let me tell you, both of them were equally impressive.
Orange Roots: This eatery is a bit of a hidden gem. It is a women-led establishment, with a strong emphasis on female leadership and empowerment. The café is managed and operated by women, highlighting their entrepreneurial spirit and leadership skills in the hospitality industry. With its cozy ambiance and delectable menu, it's a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Be sure to try their signature dishes, as they never disappoint ! And me being a dosa lover, I couldn't resist ordering South Indian cuisine even though I was traveling in East India—talk about a cross-cultural treat! And let me tell you, the real surprise was their beetroot chutney served with the dosa—it was an absolute chef's kiss moment!
Jiva Resort: Situated at an enviable location in Cherrapunji, this resort offers breathtaking bird's-eye views of the mountains. Even if you're not checked in here, it's worth popping by for a delightful lunch or dinner. During our visit for lunch, we were treated to some delicious food. And let me tell you, their Gulab Jamun served with vanilla ice cream stole the show for me!
Day 7 : Back to Shillong
The next day, we headed back to Shillong. We decided to take a little detour and visit some tea gardens along the way.
Surrounded by rolling hills and green valleys, these gardens were a peaceful sight. We strolled through the rows of tea plants, breathing in the fresh air and enjoying the quiet surroundings.
Before bidding farewell to Meghalaya, our final activity was shopping in Police Bazaar. Since we were staying approximately 5 km away from the market, we decided to book a Rapido bike for convenience. However, as I had already purchased souvenirs from Mawlyngong Village, I didn't do much shopping here.
The market was bustling with activity, with busy traffic scenes all around. Despite the crowds, we managed to explore the famous 'Dylan's Cafe' in Shillong. Visiting during the afternoon, we found the cafe relatively peaceful and enjoyed our time there.
Where did I stay
Here is a list of accommodations I stayed at during my trip:
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Shillong: Zostel Shillong - Honestly, this was my least favorite Zostel experience. The services could have been better. I would recommend exploring other hotel options in Shillong. If possible, somewhere near Polize bazaar so that you can explore the market as well as good cafes and restaurants.
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Mawlyngong Village : All the homestays in this village are listed on their website (https://mawlynnongbamboocottage.com/) and can also be booked through Airbnb. During our stay, we opted for "West Corner Homestay" and I was impressed. The host was extremely welcoming and the overall experience was delightful.
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Cherrapunji : Labana Hotel. This hotel's location was spot on. We enjoyed the stunning views, especially in the morning when we could see clouds below us as we stepped out of the hotel. And the food was also nice.
P.S. Some of the photographs in this blog are taken by my friend Neha (Insta profile : @capturingmoments_np)
As my 7-day journey in Meghalaya draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the question: Why Meghalaya? And my answer is simple: why not? This place has so much to offer. This enchanting land has woven its spell around me, revealing countless treasures that lie hidden within its embrace. And to truly experience its magic, one must delve deep into its heart and soul. For me, Meghalaya is not just a destination; it's a tapestry of precious moments and cherished memories that will forever reside in my heart.